March Round Up: Louis Vuitton is launching make up, Printemps opens in NYC, and I visit Chanel’s Beauty Playground & Stroll Down Marylebone Lane.
#65: This is In The Loop’s March round-up where you’ll find retail, fashion & beauty news and trends, through the lens of a retail strategist who loves to shop, share & dive in to all the latest.
March was a busy month in retail.
There were new launches, long-awaited store openings, and a beauty brand unexpectedly started selling eggs alongside their skincare in NYC.
Intrigued? Here’s everything you need to know to stay In The Loop.
Louis Vuitton Is Launching Make Up with Pat McGrath
What an exciting development in the luxury beauty sphere. Given that the Louis Vuitton vanity cases and make up bags are among their bestsellers, this foray in to make up feels like a natural step in the brand’s evolution. This launch shows that Louis Vuitton is diversifying and giving customers a lower entry price point as a buy in, which is necessary as luxury fashion takes a hit. It’s also a smart strategic move to appeal to current customers who want a more playful experience from the brand.
It’s a clever play to partner with Pat McGrath, a true visionary in this space, as it lends serious credentials to the new range to be launched in autumn. So, what can we expect from La Beauté Louis Vuitton? Bright colours, innovative formulas and gorgeous packaging are a given, but I think we’ll get a core range of classic products, with a heavy sprinkling of trend-led palettes that encourage playfulness and creativity. Could this launch change the face of luxury beauty? I’d love to know what you think.
Printemps has opened in New York
And it’s the most fabulous store you’ve ever seen - take a look at the photos in The Wallpaper here
The Printemps locations in Boulevard Hausseman and Vincennes in Paris are steeped in tradition and history; they’re iconic landmarks in the Paris infrastructure that serve as shops but also as culturally important locations. So when it was announced that a further branch was opening in Lower Manhattan I was excited and intrigued in equal measure. How will they pull this off?
The answer is they didn’t try and fit the existing Printemps format in to the American market; they created something entirely different that fits in to a historic site in the fabric of a new city, while still being entirely different to the incumbents like Bloomingdales, Macy’s and Barney’s. Far from being another department store in New York, Printemps is being billed as “an ever evolving luxury concept store” that will “seamlessly integrate retail, hospitality, dining, and innovative programming with a curated approach to fashion and lifestyle”, according to their CEO Jean-Marc Bellaiche. Gorgeous interiors, impeccable displays and a full lifestyle experience await customers. What a treat!
Summer Fridays added eye patches to their Jet Lag Collection.
No one could have missed this Summer Fridays eye patch launch; it was a masterclass in building up hype and excitement through clever marketing and influencers. A cursory scroll through any social media channel in March would have seen you stumble upon these blue hydrogel eye masks, and that is exactly the point for a product designed to be used everywhere and anywhere.
From a strategy standpoint, this launch was a smart move because it showcases the magic of building on what you already have (the bestselling Jet Lag collection) by adding what customers have been asking for, and then selling it all in multipacks and discovery kits that are perfectly designed for travel.
Pop ups popping up: Chanel brings playfulness back to beauty.
Pop ups are a great way to drum up excitement about your brand, and test demand for products, without a huge investment; if customers are delighted with their experience, they will pay your permanent store or website a visit because you’ve already made a connection with them. A a retail-obsessive, I couldn’t wait to check out the Chanel Rouge Coco Playground in London’s Covent Garden, with bookable masterclasses redeemable against products.
Despite how busy it was, the sales associates did a great job of creating an intimate and luxurious experience for shoppers. The playground concept itself is interesting and brings us back to the idea that make up should be experimental and creative, giving shoppers the freedom to explore looks that work for them rather than fitting in to the GRWM tutorials on social media. I wasn't super keen on playing the games myself, but I did enjoy discussing shades and formulas with the sales associates who were as always ready to help me find what I needed.
The Ordinary uses extraordinary marketing to go viral for all the right reasons.
Eggs are expensive in the US right now, and The Ordinary leapt on this opportunity to start selling eggs themselves in their New York store. Housed in the brand’s signature sleek packaging, this made everyone stop and look, and it’s a smart way of using headline news that’s impacting customers’ daily lives to shift attention to your brand. I don’t think I’ve seen anything like it, but it was utterly brilliant, and it got everyone talking.
Strategy insights via Retail Lab
This is my weekly deep-dive where I give you the lowdown on a specific trend, brand or retailer. If you love to shop, you’ll love this inside scoop; if you’re a brand or retailer looking for new ideas, don’t miss out on these tips that give you the blueprint on how to build a successful retail business- make sure to sign up for future editions here.
In case you missed it, here’s a round up of the Retail Lab breakdowns that went out in March.
Trendspotting
Come with me as I seek out the latest retail trends in fashion and beauty.
Earlier this month I spent a day on Marylebone Lane, and it was refreshing to be on a vibrant high street where food, fashion and community can thrive. I loved the mix of clothing shops, with everything from Sweaty Betty and Lululemon to Frame and Sézane all easily accessible, Oh My Cream is a beauty lover’s dream and I even popped in to The White Company to check out some new home pieces I had my eye on. If you haven’t been lately, check it out; the mix of retailers and brands is perfect and if you want to grab food, there’s plenty to choose from (plus it’s away from the bustle of Oxford Street).
It feels like all the major brands are turning to hospitality for their “third space” and it makes sense. Ralph’s Coffee is still just as popular as it was when it first opened, and Dior and Louis Vuitton are both opening restaurants to enhance their customers’ experience. It’s a clever strategy and one I am deep-diving in to in a future issue of Retail Lab soon.
After reading this article in WWD about luxury sales sliding as fast fashion and resale are on the up, the message from customers is clear: they have sustainability on their minds, but they’re also searching for value, and high street brands are offering this in abundance with dupes, high quality fabrics and innovative designs that have a quick turnaround. There is also a sense that luxury brands have been slow to innovate their digital offering, with customers seeing them as stale compared to more nimble high street retailers. I think customers are also tiring of price hikes at luxury houses and are instead searching the resale market for designer finds while complementing them with high street pieces to create a high-low aesthetic. The retail market is changing and having the right long-term strategy will give businesses the edge they need to navigate it.
I go out and about a lot, to high streets, shopping centres and markets so if you want to see more of my trend spotting in real time, be sure to follow me over on Instagram.
What to look forward to in April from Retail Collaborative and In the Loop
Spring collections and windows- I’ll round up the best of what I see and summarise the strategy behind them
I’ll be taking a long overdue visit to King’s Road
I’m launching new services and offers at the end of April and I can’t wait to share them with you so you can have new ways to work with me.
And that’s a wrap for March!
I’ll be back in your inbox tomorrow with the latest edition of Retail Lab, where I talk about functional fashion.
Until then,
Hina